“These your husband’s?” she asked quietly.

I nodded.

She didn’t say anything else. She didn’t need to. She folded his gray hoodie and laid it on top. She pushed the suitcase closed with her knee and yanked the zipper as far as it would go. Then she pulled a long elastic strap out of her own tote bag and wrapped it around the suitcase twice and buckled it.

“There,” she said. “That’ll hold till you get home.”

“I can’t take your strap.”

“Honey, I’ve got six more. My daughter buys me one every Christmas because she doesn’t know what else to get me.” She helped me stand up. She kept one hand on my elbow. “Somebody picking you up?”

I opened my mouth.

“Yes,” I lied. “They’re outside.”

She looked at me for a long second, like she knew.

Then she squeezed my arm and walked away toward the parking garage.

I never got her name.

My own family was less than an hour away.

A stranger in pink scrubs had done more for me in two minutes than any of them had done in five days.


I should explain about the five days.

James died on a Thursday.

We were in Portugal because of his work. He was a building inspector for the city of Portland, and once a year he went to a conference on building safety. That year, it was in Porto. He asked me to come. He said we’d tack on a few days afterward and drive up to the little village where we’d honeymooned eight years earlier. A place called Ponte de Lima, with a long stone bridge and a river so slow it barely moved.

“We’ll eat too much bread,” he said. “We’ll sit on the bridge. We’ll do nothing.”

On the second morning of the conference, he came back to the hotel room at lunch and said he had a headache.

“A real one,” he said, pressing his palm against his forehead. “Like someone’s standing on my skull.”

I gave him two ibuprofen and told him to lie down.

He lay down.

He said, “I love you, Amelia. Wake me up at three.”

At three, I couldn’t wake him up.

The doctors said it was an aneurysm. A weak spot in a blood vessel in his brain that had probably been there his whole life. It could have burst at any time. When he was ten. When he was eighty. It just happened to burst on a Thursday in a hotel room in Portugal.

“There was nothing you could have done,” the doctor said in careful English. “Nothing anyone could have done.”

People keep telling you that, after. They mean it kindly. It doesn’t help.

I called my family from the hospital hallway that night. I remember the floor tiles were green and white, like a checkerboard. I remember staring at them.

My mother answered on the fifth ring.

“Amelia? It’s almost midnight there, isn’t it? Is everything okay?”

“Mom.” My voice broke. “Mom, James died.”

There was silence.

Then she said, “What do you mean, died?”

I told her. All of it. The headache. Three o’clock. The ambulance. The doctor.

“Oh my God,” she said. “Oh, honey. Oh my God.”

For a moment, it was enough. For a moment, she sounded like my mother.

Then she said, “Well, what are you going to do? Are you bringing him home?”

“I don’t know. I don’t know anything. The man at the funeral home said it could take weeks to bring him back. There’s paperwork. It’s thousands of dollars.”

“Weeks?”

“Mom, can you come? Can someone come? Please. I’m by myself.”

I heard her breathe out. I heard the TV in the background. I heard my father ask, “Who is it?”

“It’s Amelia,” she said, away from the phone. “James passed.”

Then she came back.

“Honey, we can’t just drop everything and fly to Portugal. Do you know what those flights cost on short notice? And your father’s knee. He can’t sit on a plane for fourteen hours.”

“Troy could come.”

“Troy has the kids. And work. You know how his job is.”

I did know how his job was. Troy sold commercial insurance. He worked from home three days a week.

“Look,” my mother said. “You’ll handle the arrangements over there, and then when you get back, we’ll do something here. A nice service. At the church. Okay? Everyone will come to that.”

I stood in that green-and-white hallway and didn’t say anything.

“Amelia? Are you there?”

“I’m here.”

“You’ve always been so capable,” she said. “You’ll be fine.”

So I handled the arrangements.

I learned that bringing James home would take three to five weeks and cost more than we had in savings. I learned that his body would have to be embalmed under rules I didn’t understand and shipped in the cargo hold of a plane, in a sealed metal box, like freight.

And then I remembered something James said on our honeymoon.

We’d been sitting on that stone bridge in Ponte de Lima, eating bread out of a paper bag, with our feet hanging over the river. He’d been quiet for a long time. Then he said, “You know, if I die first, don’t ship me anywhere. I hate that idea. Being mailed. Just put me somewhere with a view.”

“You’re morbid,” I’d said.

“I’m a building inspector. I think about worst cases for a living.” He’d bumped my shoulder with his. “Somewhere with a view, okay? And come visit.”

So I found a small cemetery on a hill above the river. A local priest agreed to bury a stranger. The funeral director drove me up there in his own car and wouldn’t take money for the gas.

That morning, at nine o’clock local time, they lowered James into the ground.

The only people there were me, the priest, the funeral director, and two old men with shovels who took off their caps.

Somewhere with a view.